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Why do you need a fuel cell? For those situations where you do not have enough range between gas stops. For competitive endurance rallies or rides to allow you to optimize stops. Click here to view my endurance riding adventures.
If you have a stock seat, Ron Smith makes a tank that is approved for Iron Butt Association events: EZTank2. I have a Corbin Seat and through various emails discovered that Ron' tank would not work with my seat. Therefore, I elected to assemble my own fuel cell.
You run the main tank to below 1/4 level and then open the red valve. This allows the fuel from the auxiliary fuel cell to feed into the main tank. It takes about 15 minutes to fully drain. Once drained rotate the red valve back to the off position. Note: that the tank is plastic, so a ground wire should be attached between the bike and the fill spout due the potential of static electricity.

The fitting that comes with the tank sticks out pretty far. I did not like the fact that this would be at my back so I cut off the fitting and tapped both sides using a 1/8" pipe tap. This allowed me to install a 90 degree street elbow on the outside and a 90 degree barbed fitting on the inside. I cut off the inside fitting and rotated it down so that it would drain the bottom of the tank.
The vent hose is looped at run downs the right side of the bike above the saddle back. It then runs through the hole in the license plate bracket. You need the vent in the event of overflow or expansion and you need the loop in order to fill the tank to its fullest.

Installation and removal take less than 5 minutes. Simply set the tank and frame on the passenger grips. Use two bolts on each side, which fit thru a rectangular block on to lock it in place. The back side of the frame is drilled and tapped. Install the quick disconnect to the fuel feed and route the vent tube.