Running Light and License Plate Frame Modification

My original idea was to add a Harley Davidson Road King turn signal bar to the back of my Spirit. I bought the bar off of Ebay (probably paid too much for it but really didn't care). I didn't have time to mount it, so it laid around for awhile. I purchased the National Cycle light bar and realized that the turn signals on the NC light bar were the same as on the RK turn signal bar, except that they were dual filament. I contacted NC and they said that they could supply the turn signals as a spare part; but, that they did not have the red lenses. NC said the lights were a knock off of HD and that Chris Products had the red lenses. I contacted my local Harley shop and they weren't much help. Alas I remembered that I had an old Drag Specialties FatBook. I found the red lenses, so the modification was on.

I used the following parts:
  • Road King Turn Signal Bar (Ebay). I removed the lights and did not use them since they were single filament. - $60.00
  • National Cycle Turn Signals. Part #  90-930921-000 for a complete turn signal, priced at $24.55.for each. 2 required. $5.80 shipping.
  • Drag Specialties (Chris Products) red lenses. Part # DS-272052. 2 required at $3.39 each.
  • Shrink tubing, wire, and wire ends $20.00
 I could have used these parts instead:
  • Drag Specialties Rear Turn Signal Mount Part # DS-280270.
  • Drag Specialties (Chris Products) Dual filament light with red lens. Part #CH8400R

Not sure about the cost of these parts, but I know they are readily available.

    

 

Bikercom.com (Highway Hawk)
License Plate Frame

Part # H59-086

$29.90 + $6.50 Shipping

Total cost of this modification: $178.08

Installation Notes

  1. I made my own wiring harness.

    1. I took a piece of 10-3 with ground electrical wire and pulled out the wires. I used the wire cover as my wiring harness sleeve.

    2. I wanted to use the stand connectors so that the original plug could be used. I could not find plug connectors that matched the original harness. So I spliced a small section of the original wire with the plug to a new wire.

    3. There were a couple of places that I needed a Y.  Here I removed a short section of the covering from the main wire at about 3" from the end and soldered a 3" piece of wire to it to form the Y.

    4. The harness had four wires: Ground (Green); Brown (Running Lights); Light Blue (Right Turn Signal); Orange (Left Turn Signal).

    5. All splices and plug connectors were covered with heat shrink tubing for extra water protection. I hate to keep chasing your around; but there are some close-ups of the plugs on the backoff page.

    I located the new harness next to the original Brake/Tail Light harness and working from the front of the bike, added wire tires about every 3-4". I was able to route the new harness through the existing grommet.

    Underside of Fender: I drilled small holes in the existing guard for the original Brake/Taillight harness and used wire ties to hold the new harness to the guard.

     

  2. I mounted the RK turn signal bar behind the license plate bracket. I clamped the bar in place and then transferred the location of the license plate bracket top slots to the bar. I then drilled two 5/16" holes into the bar. The bar was mounted with two 1/4-20 pan head screws and lock nuts (on back).
       

  3. I removed the original turn signals off the RK turn signal bar and replaced them with the two dual filament lights from National Cycle. Note: the National Cycle lights do not have an internal ground. I hooked the ground from the new wiring harness to the license plate bracket and everything seems to be ok. The red wire is the turn signal wire; the black wire is the running light wire. The color coding may not be consistent. Test from the battery. The brighter light is the turn signal. Plug connectors were added.
      

  4. I like the looks of the Bickercom.com license bracket; but, it is plastic and a b*$%# to mount. I had to punch new mounting holes and then still had a tough time. The wires to the light are so small, that I decided that they were a potential problem, so I left them unconnected. I will just serve as reflector. If I had it to do again, I would not use this frame.
      

  5. I used two galvanized pipe clamps (p-clamps) and bolted them to the studs on the taillight bracket, to hold the harness away from the fender. See photo in step 1.