When it's time to hit the road, you need luggage that will stand up to the demands of real riding. LeatherLyke™ saddlebags and cruiser cases are your best bet. Unlike cowhide or simulated leather products, LeatherLyke™ luggage is rigid and durable. The ABS polymer construction maintains its shape, and won't crack or sag. Rich leather textures look great and last a lifetime. The neoprene, foam-lined interior cushions contents from vibrations and insulates from heat or cold. The hinged, locking lid and weatherproof design secures contents and provides convenient, on-the-road access.
LeatherLyke™ saddlebags are made from two types of ABS plastic and are co-extruded into one piece. The bottom layer is a structural ABS that provides rigidity and strength. The top layer is our beautiful LeatherLyke™ laminate, giving you the beauty and feel of leather, but with greater strength and durability. No other manufacturer in the world can duplicate the strength and beauty of LeatherLyke™ saddlebags.
Each saddlebag is custom formed so it will fit your bike perfectly. The last thing you need in motorcycle luggage is complicated, time-consuming installation or removal. LeatherLyke™ bags clip on and off in a flash. Saddlebags attach with four support studs inserted into existing holes on the motorcycle. Spring retainer clips on the inside secure bags in place. No auxiliary saddlebag supports are required for LeatherLyke™ products. Basic turn signal relocation kits are provided if required.
Leatherlyke™ products are specifically designed by motorcycle enthusiasts to look great on cruisers and low riders.
Hoese Corporation
DBA Leatherlyke Luggage
16 Gauge Orange Wire - 2 feet
16 Gauge Blue Wire - 2 feet
16 Gauge Green Wire - 4 feet
3/16 Shrink Tubing (shrinks to 3/32)- 1 Package
12/3 Electrical Wire (Get the wire that has a then black plastic casing (not
Romex) - 10 feet.
1/2" one bolt, galvanized pipe hanger - 2 required.
Black Electrical Tape
Small Wire Ties - Get a dozen or so.
Metric Socket Set
Soldering Iron and Solder
Wire Stripper
Wire End Crimper
Wire Cutters
Phillips Screwdriver
Pliers
Rounded 1/8" Dowel
Allen Wrench Set
This task takes some time and patience, most on the Shadow Riders Forum said three to four hours. The largest task is the wiring necessary to relocate the turn signals. I was a little slower; about five hours and a few trips to the hardware and automotive store trying to decide how to route and retain the wiring. I also had previously installed Saddleman bags and Cobra extensions which added a little more work.
Remove the seat. I have a Corbin so yours may be different
than mine. Just do it.
Remove the three bolts on each side that hold the rear
fender in place and allow the fender to drop down onto the tire. Note: these
bolts also hold the back rest and luggage rack, so they will be removed and
laid aside. (The instructions below related to wiring is what I did the
first time. I rewired my lights later to add a Road King turn signal bar and
found that it was a lot easier to just remove the entire fender. Go here for
some more suggestions on wiring: light.htm.)
Pull the fuse to the turn signals.
Cut the wire to the turn signal. Note: I cut the wire so
that I would have about 6" of pigtail on the turn signal.
Remove the turn signals. Note: you do not remove the rubber
turn signal grommet that fits in the turn signal rail.
Remove the rear nut that holds the saddlebag guard in place
(both sides). You need to do this so that your can pull the turn signal
harness out of the rail.
Pull the turn signal harnesses out of the rail and replace
saddlebag guard nuts so you don't loose them.
Depending on where you cut the harness, you will need about
18"-24" of wire that spliced onto the harness. Don't be cheap. Go
to the local hardware (Ace) store and you can buy 16 gauge wire by the foot.
I bought 2 feet of blue and orange and 4 feet of green at $0.11 per foot..
Leatherlyke sends a piece of black wire. But, if you invest in the colored
wire to match the harness, it will make your job easy and will help in
trouble shooting down the road.
I soldered a 2 foot piece of wire to each of the wires in
the harness and then covered with a short piece of shrink tubing. Note: it
is a good idea to stagger the cuts so that the splices are not adjacent to
each other when place in the harness.
Cut the 12/3 wire into two foot lengths. Pull out the wires
one at a time with a pair of pliers and trash. The casing will be use for
the harness cover. Slip the casing up over the spliced leads and attach to
the original harness casing with a few wraps of electrical tape.
With a rounded 1/8" dowel, push each harness through
the grommet that holds the tail light harness. Note: this is going to be a
tight fit and will take some patience. Do not use a screwdriver as you may
cut the casing on the tail light harness accidentally. You just have to get
the new harness through the grommet far enough that you can pull on it from
the bottom. Note: as you pull the harness through, make sure that you hold
the grommet on the other side so that you do not pull it out. Pull each of
the two harnesses all the way through and then cable tie to the taillight
harness on the top of the fender.
Lift the fender and reinstall the two bolt front fender
bolts. Temporarily hand tighten a bolt in each of the rear mounts to hold
the fender in place
Reach up under the fender and with your fingers pull the
three wire clips down away from the fender slightly. With a drill, slightly
larger that the wire tie, drill a hole in the center of each of the clips,
close to the edge. Be cautious not to drill the tail light wiring harness or
through the fender.
Attach the two turn signal harnesses to the wire clips by
inserting a cable tie through the hole in the clip and around the two turn
signal harnesses.
Remove one lower nut that holds the tail light in place,
insert the pipe hanger over the bolt and replace the nut. Do this only on
one side at this time. Route the two turn signal harnesses down through one
of pipe clamps. Note: both harnesses through the same clamp.
Install the turn signal relocation bracket. The diagram that
comes with this is pretty good (copy of diagram below these instructions) and the hardware is supplied.
Add a male plug onto each of the leads from the turn
signals.
Install the turn signals into the bracket. Note: the turn
signals install with a spacer provided with the kit and the original nut but
without the rubber grommet that is should still be mounted in the rail if
you followed my earlier instructions. If you removed the rubber grommet from
the rail or if like me, had removed it when I installed the Cobra
Extensions, put it back. Patience and some cussing required. Another Note:
the spacer had too large a diameter to fit over the turn signal and I had to
grind down one side. It is soft plastic, so not a big deal.
Cut the harness so that you will have enough wire do that
you can route the harness through the pipe bracket on the other side and so
that it will be long enough to reach the leads on the turn signal. If you
are not sure, cut too long, wire is hard to stretch. Temporarily tape the
harness to the turn signal lead and hold in place where the bracket will
mount. You do not want the wire to be too long as you don't want it sagging
and catching the tire. P.S. If you were cheap and did not buy the colored
wire, you get to figure out which wire goes to which turn signal.
Install a female plug on each of the leads from the harness.
Route the harness through the pipe bracket from the
top and plug to the turn signal leads.
Install the fuse to the turn signals and test. Hopefully,
every thing is cool.
Wrap the plugs with several layers of black electrical tape
for protection.
Remove, the reflectors from the rail. These are bolted in
place from the back of the rail.
Install a black stick on oval washer so that the reflector
mounting hole is usable; but, the orientation hole is covered.
Install one of the saddlebag mounts in the reflector hole.
Insert the spacer provided in the kit, into the rubber
grommet and attach a saddlebag mount by using the back hole in the rubber
grommet where you just placed the spacer. Note: Do not over tighten or you
will have a tough time installing the mounting clips.
Reinstall the backrest and luggage rack and tighten all
fender bolts.
Apply silicone (provided with kit) to the mounts and install
the bags.
Install retaining clips on the inside.
